The Lost Kalahari
The drive from the Makgadikgadi
Pans to the Central Kalahari Game Reserve was dusty one to say
the least. Winter in the Kalahari is also the dry season. There was not a
cloud in the sky nor water
to be found anywhere.
Leaving the pans and entering
Deception Valley we got our first view of some of the controversial Botswana
veterinary fence. In the early 60's as cattle ranching became an important
industry in Botswana, veterinary
fences were erected to isolate cattle from other wildlife. These fences prevented
many species, particularly
the Namimbian buffalo from migrating to water in the dry season. Countless
buffalo, elephant and other
species have perished as a result of the fences. Hoof and mouth disease is
also a concern as we had
to use a foot wash as we entered the Game Reserve.
Deception Valley. The basis for the book The Lost Kalahari
Incredibly dry and flat.
One single lane sand track and some curious observers. We drove the Kalahari
for 5 days getting up close and personall with it's inhabitants. During the
5 day drive we encountered 1
Unimog coming in the other direction owned by the reserve
Above is a typical termite mound, some curious Ostrich and a dog of some sort.
The accomodations certainley
weren't the Vic Falls hotel, or even Jack's camp, but were still quite
remarkable with cotton sheets and full duvets. Our ration of water for both
our showers was a bit under
5 gallons, which made showering a joint effort.
Springbok really do "spring". Very appropriatley named. They were a joy to watch and I think they actually enjoyed watching us as well. We also got several visits from little ground squirrels
The top right phote is
a close up of a beautiful Gazzelle that unfortunatley I was unable to capture
on film without the tree in the way.
Each day we had a combination
Lunch / Afternon Tea wherever we happened to be when it was time.
These teas were one of our favorite times of the day. A chance to stretch
and ask questions of our guides.
we also stopped frequently for a bit of instruction on some of the flora and
fauna of the Kalahari.
Our other favorite times
were dinner and watching African Television (a campfire) after dinner while
enjoying
Elephant Juice, Port wines and even some local beers with our newly made friends.
The journey continues.
Being so far away from our day to day life at home, as well as being so
disconnected from it by any modern technology was refreshing and gave you
the feeling of complete
freedom and relaxation.
The diesel refueling came in the evening by Land Rover of course as we enjoyed anothe campsite
Note the small shovel in the bucket of sand beside the lew. This is the Kalahari equivalent of a flush. And the center picture was the extent of our shower. That's me on the right washing up for breakfast.
As we exited the Central
Game Reserve we stopped at a bush village to buy a few souveniers. This was
our
first encounter with the San people of southern Africa. A sad story indeed.
Not unlike the story relating to us
and the Native Americans, but more on that when we reach Xai Xai. I did get
to dance with the kids a bit
which was great fun. They were all very friendly and dance, and laughter is
pretty universal.
MAKGADIKGADI / GCHWIHABA / BOTSWANA